Models, Learn Your Business - Model Expenses

Models, Learn Your Business - Model Expenses

Riddle Me This:
Why Aspiring Models Think They Don't Have To Pay For Anything?

If You Don't Have A Real Market Base, Who Do You Think You Are?


Modeling agencies often hear new models say "Well, if you liked me you would pay for everything". Unfortunately, the hype surrounding modeling agencies paying for expenses is grossly exaggerated and often wishful thinking on the part of new models who don't understand how the modeling industry really works.
Advice: "Don't pay an agency to represent you" - is absolutely correct.
But that is much different from investing in your own basic start-up costs that don't involve the agency, such as photoshoots, composite cards, etc. These are services you need from outside sources such as photographers, stylists, printers, etc.
Agencies that were willing to finance the careers of new models were much more prevalent in the 1980's than they are today. In the '80's the modeling industry was booming, many of the agencies such as Ford Models, Next, Company, Elite, IMG, etc. were new and building their rosters; clients were paying huge fees for models.
Modeling agencies soon learned that financing the careers of new models was more costly than profitable. Many agencies lost hundreds of thousands of dollars each year when new models were unable to fulfill their obligations for a variety of reasons that were of no fault of the agency. Young models may have found they couldn't handle the stress, they didn't like being away from home, their looks changed, they were difficult to work with, or any number of reasons that would send a new model packing and the agency holding the bill.
Today, many agencies expect to be repaid for advances even if the model does not work. Some agencies have gone as far as taking legal action against models who have outstanding debts. These days over 90% of models working with top agencies in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Paris, London, Milan, etc. did not have their initial expenses advanced and they worked long and hard to get where they are.
As a fashion model you are a self-employed, independent contractor. You are considered a sole proprietor in your own small business, you are not an employee of the agency. In addition to basic start-up costs, professional models, including those represented by top agencies such as Ford Models, Elite, Next, Wilhelmina, DNA, Women or Karin's are required to cover all of their own promotional expenses such as composite cards, agency books, headsheets, websites, couriers, etc. These promotional expenses can run anywhere from $200 - $600 per year to post photos on the agency website, $1,500 - $2,500 per year for composite cards, in addition to couriers, postage, working visa's, legal and accounting fees. Professional models understand that this is simply the cost of doing business and it is standard in the industry for the model to cover these promotional expenses.
Don't make the mistake of telling an agent to pay for your expenses. Agents consider this extremely rude, presumptuous and unprofessional and it is a sure fire way to make the agent show you the door. If an agent is willing to help you financially they will offer it. Keep in mind this is extremely rare and is generally offered only by large agencies in markets such as New York, Paris or Milan and they will deduct what you owe them the moment you book a job.

Normal Start-Up Expenses

Test shoot with a photographer: You should pay approximately $85 - $125 per one change. You will then need prints made from your shoot. Photographers usually charge $20 - $25 per 9 x 12 print.

Professional make-up artists usually charge between $85 - $150 flat rate. This should include at least 3 looks and basic hairstyling.

A clothing stylist will go to stores and gather up-to-date clothes and accessories for your shoot. Rates are generally $125 - $175 flat rate. Clothing stylists are optional but highly recommended if you can find a good one in your area.

After your shoot you can print composite cards or laser copy 3-4 of your photos on one sheet of paper. If you already have an agency they may recommend a good printer that prints composite cards. Prices can vary greatly for composite cards and laser copies so it is a good idea to check around. You may be required to cover the cost to have your photos placed on a headsheet, in an agency promo book or on the agency's website. These are all normal and perfectly legitimate expenses.